The proposal ring does not have to be the final word. A growing number of South African couples — celebrating significant anniversaries, milestone birthdays, or simply finding themselves in a better financial position than at the time of the proposal — are choosing to upgrade or redesign their engagement ring. It is more common than most people realise, and more achievable than many assume.
Diagem has handled dozens of ring upgrades and redesigns over the past 25 years. Here is a practical guide to what is possible, what it costs, and how to get the best value from the process.
Ring Restyling vs Stone Upgrade: What Is the Difference?
These are two distinct projects that are often conflated but require different approaches:
Ring restyling means keeping the existing diamond (or stones) but replacing or redesigning the setting around it. The original stone is removed, the old setting is recycled or sold as scrap metal, and a new setting is crafted to your design. This works well when the stone itself is of good quality but the setting looks dated, was budget-constrained at the time, or simply no longer suits the wearer’s taste. A restyling at Diagem typically takes 3–5 weeks and the cost is primarily the new setting and any additional stones added.
Stone upgrade means replacing the original diamond with a larger or higher-quality stone. You may keep the existing setting if it can accommodate the new stone, or commission a new setting at the same time. A stone upgrade is the right choice when the original stone is small, has notable flaws, or when the budget simply allows for something significantly better.
Some upgrades involve both: a larger stone and a completely new setting around it. This is effectively commissioning a new ring, using the trade-in value of the original ring to offset part of the cost.
Trading In Your Original Diamond: Realistic Expectations
This is the part where it is worth being direct. Diamonds — particularly retail-purchased diamonds — do not hold their original purchase price for resale. The gap between retail buying price and dealer buying price is substantial, typically:
- Natural diamonds: expect 20–40% of the original retail purchase price from a reputable dealer. A diamond you paid R30,000 for at retail might fetch R8,000–R12,000 as a trade-in. The GIA certificate, stone quality, and current market all affect this.
- Lab-grown diamonds: resale is considerably harder. Lab-grown prices have dropped 60–80% since 2020 as global production scaled up. A lab-grown stone purchased for R20,000 two years ago may be worth R5,000–R8,000 at best as a trade-in — and some dealers will not buy them at all. If you have a lab-grown diamond from the original ring, factor in that its trade-in contribution will likely be modest.
This does not make an upgrade unviable — it just means the trade-in value is a contribution towards the cost, not a reimbursement. The new ring is an upgrade from your current one, and the enjoyment it brings over the next 20 or 30 years is the actual return on the investment. For more context on how diamond value works, see our diamond investment guide.
Adding to an Existing Ring
Not every upgrade involves replacing the ring. Adding to an existing ring is often a practical and cost-effective option:
- Adding pavé or channel-set diamonds to a plain solitaire band — this transforms a simple solitaire into a more elaborate design without touching the centre stone. Cost depends on the number and quality of stones added, typically R5,000–R18,000 for a quality pavé band addition.
- Adding a halo around the centre stone — this is a more complex rework that enlarges the visual footprint of the ring and gives it a more dramatic look. Not always possible depending on the existing setting design, but worth asking about.
- Resizing and refinishing — rings that have been worn for years can be resized, polished, re-rhodium-plated (for white gold), or have prongs retipped. This is maintenance rather than an upgrade, but it can make a significant visual difference.
Commissioning a Full Second Ring
Some wearers prefer a second ring as a separate piece rather than modifying the original. Common choices:
- Eternity ring — full or half eternity bands set with diamonds are the traditional anniversary ring choice. Popular for 10th, 20th, and 25th anniversaries. A quality half eternity in 18ct gold with 0.50ct total diamond weight typically runs R12,000–R25,000 through Diagem direct.
- Right-hand ring — a distinctive diamond ring worn on the right hand, quite separate from the engagement ring. Popular among women who want to wear their engagement ring traditionally but also enjoy a second diamond piece. These are typically more flamboyant in design — cocktail-style or cluster settings.
- Custom anniversary band — a bespoke band designed to complement the original engagement ring, potentially nesting against it or sharing a design language. Our bespoke jewellery service is well suited to this.
Budget Guide for Upgrades in South Africa (2026)
| Upgrade Type | Approximate Cost (ZAR) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Restyling existing diamond into new setting | R8,000–R25,000 | Excludes stone; depends on setting complexity |
| Stone upgrade (0.50ct to 1.00ct natural) | Net R25,000–R60,000 after trade-in | Depends heavily on quality grades |
| Adding pavé to existing band | R5,000–R18,000 | Depends on band width and diamond count |
| Half eternity anniversary band | R12,000–R25,000 | 18ct gold, 0.40–0.60ct total diamond weight |
| Full second ring (bespoke) | R20,000–R80,000+ | Depends on design, metal, and stone specification |
All Diagem upgrades and redesigns are handled at our Johannesburg studio at Knox Safes, 1 River Street, Houghton Estate, by appointment. We are also happy to receive rings by secure courier for restyling work if you are outside Johannesburg, with nationwide delivery on return.
Browse our engagement ring styles for inspiration on redesign directions.
Thinking about upgrading your ring or diamond? Chat with David — he’ll give you an honest assessment of your trade-in value and what an upgrade would cost.
Chat with David on WhatsAppOr contact Diagem online — we’re based at Knox Safes, 1 River Street, Houghton Estate, Johannesburg. Appointments by arrangement; nationwide delivery available.